Campeones, Campeones, oé oé oé...

When I returned from my trip to Ireland last Wednesday, I was so tired that I was in bed by 8pm that night, and I missed a very important game for Real Madrid. They were playing Athletic Bilbao, and winning that game would clinch their spot at the top and earn them the La Liga title for this season. I just couldn't stay awake! So, Thursday morning I awoke to newspaper headlines and numerous tweets about Real Madrid's 3-0 victory and immediately felt sad that I'd missed yet another storming of the city streets by excited fans. Like in many sports-centric towns, this happens after every major victory. Since I was still in the states when Spain won the World Cup in 2010, I was very sad to have missed out on scenes like this one:

I'm told a similar scene happened last Wednesday night, though on a much smaller scale, and I missed it! Bummer! But all was not lost. Like the world cup, there are always two celebrations -- one always happens at the moment with a sudden eruption of euphoric fans pouring into the streets, and the other is usually the following day, once the team has returned home and the city can organize a proper celebration. What luck! So, Thursday afternoon I met up with a friend nearby and we made our way into Plaza de Cibeles to fight the crowds and hope to get a glimpse of our favorite blancos.

It was fun, but my goodness there were so many people. I don't think I'll do that again... until Spain wins the World Cup again in 2014.

Concert Mania

Okay, okay. I know. I haven't written anything in ages. But honestly, I haven't done that much lately! I've been trying to plan a few trips and book flights here and there (upcoming: London & Dublin) and therefore have been almost too broke to do anything outside my normal routine. It has been getting pretty warm here in the afternoons, so outdoor cañas are slowly working their way back into my life.  Ahhh, la primavera ha llegado a la ciudad. That's a line from my favorite Spanish band, Delafé y las flores azules, who I got to see live on Friday night! They played at Joy Eslava, a legendary Madrid nightclub that I honestly would never even dream of going to on a night out, so not only did I get to see a great show, but I got to check out a place I may have never seen otherwise. Friday was their last show ever (supposedly) since the band actually split up a few months ago... we arrived a little late so we were stuck on the high balcony, but I still danced and sang like crazy and bounced my way home after the show.

And two weeks before that, I saw Megafaun, one of my favorite bands from NC. I saw them a few times during Hopscotch 2010 and their music just makes me so nostalgic. I had a blast and talked North Carolina with my friend Laura and one of the guys from the group after the show.

And the week before that... I saw Future Islands! They were in a really cool venue called Boite Live and put on a fantastic show as usual. I bought a sweet t-shirt with the tour dates on the back... Madrid was #1.

In just over two weeks I'll be heading to London for my spring break and mom's gonna come too!! I can't wait!

International beers in Madrid

Originally published on the Guiri Guide to Madrid

Since I started living in Madrid, my family and friends back home often ask me what things I miss most about the US. Aside from amazing burgers and Mom’s macaroni and cheese, I really miss good, interesting beer. I feel a sad longing when I think about all the pale ales and porters back home. Okay, some Spanish beers aren’t that bad, but compared to the variety back home, the beers widely available in Madrid just don’t stand a chance. To combat my nostalgia and stimulate my tastebuds, I’ve scoured the city to find a few places that offer brews that are sure to please even the most discerning palate. The following three spots–two in Malasaña and one in the center–are definitely worth checking out with your favorite beer lover.

1. Casa de la Cerveza (calle Luchana 15, metro: Bilbao)
http://www.lacasadelacerveza.eu/

With a menu boasting hundreds of different beers from all around the world–ever wanted to try a beer from Thailand?–this place is the adventurous beer fan’s paradise. Casa de la Cerveza has the look of a German brauhaus and the feel of a casual sports bar. Come here to get your weird beer fix and try an assortment of bratwursts and other German delicacies while you catch whichever fútbol team is playing that night on the big screen. And for you partygoers, Casa de la Cerveza has a 10 euro open bar deal from 11pm to 1am, though the promotion does not include many of the higher-end beers.

2. Naturbier (Plaza Santa Ana, metro: Sol)
http://www.naturbier.com/

Can you ever go wrong in Santa Ana? Naturbier is another place that brings a bit of Germany straight into the heart of Madrid. This bar gets its name from the beer that they serve on tap: an all-natural, super fresh brew made in-house. When you walk into Naturbier be sure to get a seat where the tables have taps built-in and you can try your hand at pouring your own beer. They have three varieties: rubia (a lighter blonde beer), tostada (a darker, maltier beer), and a non-alcoholic version that are always served cold and fresh, either from the bar or from your own table tap.

3. Cervezorama (calle San Andrés, 29, metro: Bilbao)
http://www.cervezorama.es

Sometimes you’d rather sit at home with your tasty beer, and this is where Cervezorama comes in. This self-proclaimed “Delicatessen Beer Shop” in Malasaña carries beer by the bottle from a few different countries, most notably Germany, Belgium, and the United States. The staff there are extremely knowledgeable and can answer any of your questions, as well as suggest beers for you to try based on your tastes. Cervezorama also carries ingredients and instructional guides needed to brew your own beer at home, and often hold meet-ups with home brewers in the area. In addition to brewer meet-ups, the shop sometimes holds beer tastings, or catas, so for a small price you can sample different brews and get to know some other Madrid beer aficionados. While you’re there, try one of the new beers by Fábrica Maravillas, an up-and-coming Madrid microbrewery with a bright future.

Of course, there are many other places in town where you can find international beers on tap, including the many Irish bars in town. But when you’re feeling in the mood for something other than Mahou, Guinness, or Heineken, stop by one of the above bars and enjoy. If you have a favorite spot to try international beers that isn’t mentioned above, please let us know in the comments. Cheers!

Source: http://guiriguidetomadrid.com/a-treat-for-...

Introducing a new Guiri: Shana Solarte


In 2009, the summer before my last year of university, I went abroad for the first time and came to Madrid on a study trip through my school’s foreign language department. We discussed colloquialisms, studied art in museums and streets, and learned a whole lot about what the inside of Spanish bars looked like. Somewhere between my first incredible glimpse of Guernica and my last caña before heading back to the States in July, I realized that I was hooked. I couldn’t get enough of this city.

That summer was spent attempting to cover as much ground as possible. We took day trips to nearby towns and weekend trips to not-so-nearby towns. I ate a lot of jamón and learned that I really love salmorejo and huevos rotos. At the end of the program, I had a few days between the end of classes and my return flight to the States, so I found a cheap flight to Rome. When I came back to Madrid to spend one last day in town and catch my plane, I felt so at home that I cried from my window seat as we circled over the city.

Fast-forward about four months. A high school friend of mine living in Murcia sent me some information about her English teaching program and I immediately knew what my post-grad plans would be. In September 2010, after a long summer of work and anticipation, I once again set foot on Spanish soil and felt as if I’d never left.

Since returning, I’ve been working in a bilingual primary school outside the city with the sweetest students and coworkers I’ve ever encountered. I am certainly still as crazy about this place as I was just a few years ago–a sunset over Gran Vía still takes my breath away. I recently discovered this quote about Madrid in a Lonely Planet book, written by LP author Anthony Ham:

There will come a moment while you’re in Madrid when you will fall irreversibly in love with this beguiling city and wonder how you can bear to live elsewhere. It might strike you at 3am when you spill onto impossibly crowded streets from a bar in Chueca. Or it could happen as you wander amid the masterpieces of the Museo del Prado. But it will happen because this is a city that creeps up on you, weaves its way into your soul and then sings happily into your ear.

I couldn’t agree more.

Day tripping: Chinchón

Well, it's been almost a month since I came back to Madrid after being home for two great weeks at Christmas. Since my return, I've been lying pretty low, just going to work, spending time with my friends on the weekends, and of course trying to plan my next trip to wherever. In this downtime, I get to enjoy what Madrid has to offer! On Saturday, my friend Meg and I decided to take a day trip to a nearby town called Chinchón.

There isn't too much to see and do there, but it did have a cool circular Plaza Mayor. We stopped into the tourist information office and saw a funny bat-shaped flyer for a restaurant called the Mesón Quiñones that boasted free entry to some bat caves, with available desgustación de vinos (wine tasting). We'd expected to find pretty cheap lunch menus in this small pueblo, but restaurants were about on par with Madrid prices in the Plaza Mayor, so we opted for a cheap lunch just a bit outside the very center, grabbed an ice cream, and headed out in search of the bat caves.

A quick glance at a map of Chinchón showed that we weren't far from the restaurant claiming to have bat caves. We walked up a few hills and around a few corners to discover that not only does this restaurant actually have some caves under it, but it is also the only restaurant we saw in Chinchón above the Plaza Mayor, save for two oddly-decorated "Irish" bars. We weren't really sure how to go about finding the caves, so we just walked in, and sure enough just across from the bar there were some stairs down into poorly-lit, slightly creepy caves. There was a small group of people heading out as we came in who told us to stop by the bar to have some wine and a snack. Our 1€ wines came with a small pincho and we got to keep our little glasses!

The odd sixteen year-old waiter working behind the bar wanted to speak to us in English, making a lot of mistakes, but he told us to feel free to take a walk around and eventually was nice enough to take a picture of us in the caves (hence why the photo is so dark). Once we finished our wines, we went back out into the town to walk around for a bit longer before having a seat in the Plaza Mayor to watch the little kids go around on donkeys and in little carriages. All of this, of course, was accompanied by some cañas while the unseasonably warm January sun baked just above our heads.

It's beginning to look a lot like...

...Christmas!!! Finally! It's Christmas time in Madrid and I could not be happier. Christmas is and has always been my favorite time of the year, because it really is The Most Wonderful Time of the Year. And this year, I am even more excited than I usually am, because this year I'm going home! Living away from my family in Chicago is something I've done since I was five years old, so for me, December comes, school lets out, and I go to Chicago for the holidays. It's normal, it's my tradition, and I love it. But last year, I didn't go home. Mom came to visit me, and we had a great time, but we both decided that it just wasn't the same... so away I go!

To begin the holiday season, at work we celebrate Día del Maestro, and in our school we celebrate in style. Our lunch began just after school ended last Monday and we all got to eat lots of delicious Spanish foods while we talked and discussed our patron saint of teachers. Like last year, we are again playing Amigo Invisible, or Secret Santa. In this lunch we drew names, and the game starts tomorrow! This is one of the things I will miss the  most about this school. There's such a buen rollo there. We all get along and enjoy staying at school until five or six in the afternoon just to hang out and have a good time.

On Sunday, a few of my friends came to my house for an early Christmas party. We also played Secret Santa - my friend Emma got me a few key pieces that every good hostess should have: a cute tray, napkins, tea, and a cute cupcake-shaped sugar dish. Everybody brought something to eat (I made mulled wine and spinach cups), we exchanged gifts, and watched Christmas movies all night. I think being of the Friends generation, I always imagined this was what "growing up" would be like.

Now there are only fifteen days between me and heading home for Christmas. How am I handling the wait? Well, on Thursday I'll head to Amsterdam for a long weekend (thank you, Spanish holidays) and then I'll come back to a week of work, a weekend of shopping for presents, and a trip or two on the Navibus, I'm sure. To help you guys aguantar until Christmas, check out my video from last year's lights and fireworks:

[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVzCliL1Pwk&w=560&h=315]

...and some photos from this year's Christmas decorations:

[slideshow]

Felices Fiestas!

Thanksgiving 2011

A few weeks ago, my work friends eagerly asked me when Thanksgiving would fall this year, due largely in part to the success of last year's celebration. So once again, the fourth Thursday in November came, and we got together again to enjoy a large, delicious, all-American meal.

This year we held the dinner at my friend Lidia's house in Alcalá de Henares, a small town outside Madrid and just next door to the town where we all work. When the turkey was cooking away in the oven we took some time to enjoy a pre-dinner snack and drinks. Lidia is from a small pueblo outside Granada, and ever the granadina, she opened her fridge and offered us three different types of Cerveza Alhambra, to be opened with an Alhambra-marked bottle opener, and to be served in Mezquita glasses. María referred to this as "Lidiasgiving." Lucky for me, Alhambra is my favorite of the widely-available Spanish beers, second only to Moritz, a beer from Barcelona and only available in Catalán-influenced areas. Bummer.

Anyway. A few Alhambras and potato chips later, dinner was ready. Again, I was in charge of the kitchen, and for dinner we ended up with a 3kg (6.6lb) turkey, mashed potatoes, stuffing, and vegetables for eight people. There were, of course, lots of leftovers. The turkey this year came out much better than last year, and I think it was because of the difference in size. The giant turkey last year was overwhelming and I overcooked it a bit...not so this year. Also, I managed to make gravy that wasn't a slimy mess! Hurrah!

My most impressive feat, however, was making a pumpkin pie. I went to Taste of America, an import shop in Madrid, and bought a pie tin, evaporated milk, and a can of packed pumpkin. Wednesday night, I very carefully followed the recipe and came out with this beauty:

Not bad for my first attempt! Everyone seemed to really like it. Unfortunately, even making my own pie couldn't convince me that pumpkin was worth eating, and I still hate it. Oh well. As we began dinner, my friend Mirella asked if I was going to say anything before we ate, so I raised my glass and proposed a toast. I told them, "even though I'm sad to be so far from home and away from family on Thanksgiving, estoy en casa y estoy con familia."

The mountains are calling...

...and I must go. City life is great, but sometimes I miss the beautiful mountain air I enjoyed while living in Boone, NC. On Saturday, my friend Jessie and I took a quick bus ride north of Madrid to a town called Manzanares El Real. While there is a castle there, we instead chose to take a short walk down the road and hike through part of La Pedriza, a mountainous collection of giant stones that make a very steep hike with really beautiful views.

You might not be able to tell unless you know what you're looking for, but those familiar with Madrid's landscape will be able to see the Cuatro Torres on the horizon. (Those not familiar with Madrid's landscape may notice two goats in the shadow of a nearby boulder.) Even though Manzanares El Real is only about 35km (~21mi) from the city, it felt like we'd traveled much further away. This was the first real hike I'd done since I was at ASU, so even two days later my legs are a little sore. I guess I'll just have to get back in hiking shape while the weather is still nice!

Days like this renew my love for la capital. Though I live within the confines of the city-shaping M30 motorway, I can easily take a Saturday and find myself having a picnic on top of a mountain after less than an hour of travel. Menos mal that I'm not much of a beach person.

Un anuncio!

Nothing new has happened lately, just the usual school routine... but I have added a new page to the blog! Check it out at the top under '101 Cosas' or click here! I am adding photos to the list as they happen or as I find the ones I've already done.... wish me luck on finishing the list!

The Ides of March

The Ides of March, or the 15th of March, is the day that Julius Caesar was killed in 44BC, and due to Shakespeare's play, Julius Caesar, the Ides of March carry a sense of imminent danger and foreboding. However, for me, the Ides of March hold a much more pleasant sentiment-- today marks six months of Spanish living!

Six months ago, I left Raleigh and boarded a plane in DC to come to Madrid. The months have absolutely flown! I have done and seen some amazing things and met a lot of great people, and most importantly, I've learned a lot. I've learned how important it is to be open to anyone or anything in a situation like this--I'm away from home, my family, my friends, my habits, my native language (more or less)...in the past that's been difficult for me, because I've always had the same group of friends for a number of years at a time before having to start from nothing (okay, maybe starting from a few friends). Something I've found to be especially wonderful about Spanish culture is how friendly everyone is. I'm not the only person to notice this, either--search nearly any travel blog for thoughts on Spanish people and most will say the same thing. In my first week of work, another teacher got off the bus at the same stop and noticed me also walking to the school. She asked if I'd arrived on the same bus, if I was going to the school, and since then she's been one of my close friends and now we enjoy a chat on the way to and from school many times each week.

I've also learned the importance of comfort. However, I'm not talking about immediately changing into pajamas after the workday. It's easy to feel disconnected and uncomfortable in a place that is so far from what I'm used to. Now I know exactly how I like to do things and I know my daily routine as if it were a science. I've always been able to recognize when I need to be alone, and though it happens a lot less frequently than it used to, it is still extremely necessary sometimes. My general introvert habits have faded a bit since coming here and I tend to spend more time around lots of people than I used to, but I think it was necessary. While my Spanish has of course improved immensely, I had to overcome the fear of even trying to speak in order to improve. I'm no longer nervous about going shopping or calling my bank, and I have friendly, casual conversations entirely in Spanish every day.

An observation I'm not sure I can make at this point is regarding my old friends. I haven't been the best at staying in touch with everyone, but at the same time I know exactly who I'll email as soon as I book a ticket home and who I'll call as soon as I shake off the jet lag. I miss my friends, and of course I miss my family so much. I actually just got a package today from Uncle Dave and Aunt Michelle (thanks!!) and the package I got for Christmas really made me appreciate my family more than I'd ever imagined. I also don't think I can miss Christmas again. Even though I do a lot of the same things here as I would do at home--sit on the couch, cook delicious food, watch TV--I know it won't ever be quite the same. But even with missing my friends and family, feeling out of place from time to time, and sometimes not even understanding English, I'm happy. The past six months have gone by entirely too quickly and I hate to think that less than four months remain, but words cannot express how grateful I am to be here and to have really been able to settle in and feel like I am part of this magnificent city.

Mom's visit - Christmas 2010

I know this post is long overdue, so I will try to do a summary. Mom came to visit over Christmas  and we had a great time! Rather than trying to travel and see lots of Spain, we stayed in Madrid, shopping, eating, cooking, and seeing the sights for most of the time she was here. We spent one day in a mountain town nearby called Cercedilla, where everything was closed because apparently small towns don't function in the last week of December, and another day in Torrejón de Ardoz, where I work, to see Parque Europa and spend the day with Inma, one of the English teachers. She showed us around Torrejón all day and took us out for a delicious lunch before we came back to Madrid, exhausted.

For New Year's Eve, we went to Puerta del Sol to take part in one of the New Year's traditions--eating twelve grapes at midnight. Unfortunately, we couldn't find any seedless grapes so I only got through half of them! We were among the huge crowds and later went to a bar nearby for some drinks to ring in the new year.

So, please to enjoy some photos from her visit!

[slideshow]

Carolina, some day I'll come home

Today, I was sitting at home trying to figure out why my computer hates to stay connected to the internet when someone aggressively buzzed our apartment. I answered to find out that it was someone from Correos, coming to deliver some packages for me. Woohoo! I opened them to find the contents of the above photo--tons of great stuff from my family including some scrapbooks, travel items, and a really nice notebook filled with pictures and well-wishes from everyone at home. Needless to say, it was a teary afternoon, but I'm so lucky to have such a great family who constantly reminds me why I love them so much.

Thanksgiving in Madrid

Dearest family and friends, I cooked a turkey. No, I can't believe it either!

Thanksgiving in Spain was hilarious and incredible. A group of the teachers at my school agreed to do Thanksgiving at María's house to experience some American culture. Jen and I did our best to advise them on the traditions and typical foods at Thanksgiving, so on Wednesday a few of the teachers went to buy some ingredients including a seven kg (about 16 pounds) turkey! We weren't sure if it would even fit in the oven (see above) but eventually it did. It cooked for a few hours and I patiently basted and re-basted it throughout the process.

Angel hilariously made four little flags, two Spanish and two American, and stuck them in the turkey once it was finished. Overall there were seven Spaniards and two Americans--Jen being the other one--and we made a turkey, stuffing, corn, green beans, peas, and mashed potatoes. Angel even made an apple pie for dessert that was really spectacular. Overall it was a lot of fun, even though after eight hours of speaking only Spanish I was completely exhausted! Everyone said they had a really great time and that they enjoyed celebrating my very American holiday... some even said they can't wait for next year :) As for now, I'll let the pictures do the talking:

[slideshow]

Hala Madrid!

It's a dreary, rainy Sunday in Madrid, after a chilly, mostly uneventful weekend, but quite a busy week! The above photo (click to enlarge) is from Wednesday night's Real Madrid v Real Murcia game. Madrid won, 5-1, but it was far from a dull blow-out game. Madrid scored within the first five minutes and the ref ended up throwing out Madrid coach José Mourinho and giving out eight yellow cards, one of which turned into a red card for Madrid defender Álvaro Arbeloa. It was really interesting to see the highlights after the game, since Bernabeu lacks a replay screen (perhaps an American indulgence but I still really wish there had been one). Mourinho was thrown out of the game--and suspended for the next two games--for badmouthing the ref and stepping outside the coach's area. The entire stadium went wild and started shouting at the referee, who is also notorious for making calls just like this one. Mourinho said in a post-game interview that this ref averages about six yellow cards per match, and considering the first card he gave out in this game was after only about ten minutes of play, many more cards were bound to follow.

Wednesday's game was part of the Copa del Rey, and since Real Murcia is in a lower-ranked division than Madrid, the tickets were absurdly cheap, only ten euros for seats on top! We'd originally planned on spending more for the "good" seats in the lower sections, since they only would have cost us about 20-30 euros each, but we bought our tickets too late and the upper levels were the only seats left. There isn't a bad seat in the house, really... the rows are pretty stacked and each row had a crossbar in front of the seats because they just know we're all going to be jumping out of our chairs every few minutes! The best part was that the upper levels have heaters on the ceilings, so even though it was freezing that night, we were nice and toasty. Overall I had a really great time and I can't wait to go to another game!

The next day at school, we had an excursion to the Parque Europa, a big green space in Torrejón with loads of European monuments in a miniature form. It does seem a bit cheesy, but I think the kids had a lot of fun. I was, however, exhausted after this trip. My normal day at school consists of talking to the kids or telling them to be quiet, but never actually trying to corral them into the room. This was not the case on Thursday. We had to shout so loudly just to get their attention and tell them what monument we were looking at. The first half of the trip I was with Inma, the English teacher, but halfway through I had to switch to be with Inés so that each group would have one teacher speaking English and one speaking Spanish. It's really incredible how easily the kids stop what they are doing to listen to someone speaking Spanish, but I understand that it's so much easier for them to tune out a different language... I was a student in language classes once!

As I mentioned in my last post, I am completely obsessed with the Spanish dish, pimientos de Padrón. Well, at the supermarket on Friday afternoon I saw a packet of these little green peppers that caught my eye, especially the part on the label that said the variety was "PADRON." Naturally, I bought a pack, brought them home, and attempted to make my new favorite dish. Success! They were delicious and just how I'd hoped they would taste. If you can get your hands on these peppers, all you have to do is wash & dry them, fry them in olive oil for a few minutes until they start to blister and shrivel a bit, and then sprinkle them with salt. Pick them up by the stems, take a bite, and hope that they don't pica!

I changed the memory card in my camera this weekend and discovered a long-lost gem--a picture of my first attempt at making a tortilla! After I returned from Spain last summer I was completely enamored with this dish (and still am) so I had some friends from my study abroad group over to my apartment for dinner and tried to have a nice tapas night. I saw this photo and thought, hmm, that looks a lot like the plates from my apartment, but I haven't made a successful tortilla in a long time... so I checked the info on the photo and it was dated 10-10-2009! Incredible! I certainly have something to live up to this time around. And if you're interested in sampling some of my favorite Spanish flavors, my friend Meredith wrote a nice blog post with a recipe for this dish in particular. My advice: don't be timid with the olive oil. You'll need it!!

I think I'm getting the Black Lung, Pop

No, I haven't started smoking or become a coal miner. But it's possible that everyone else in this city has. Smoking, that is. Not coal mining, as far as I know. It's impossible to go almost anywhere in this city without smelling like an ashtray. I had to find a new place to hang my towel because it was hanging next to my scarves, which of course smell like smoke. Yuck. The sad inevitable day finally came: the end of my first month of teaching. And the end of the month means time to switch schedules with the other assistant, Jen. Now I'm working with Inma and first-grade groups A & B. They are fine, but I miss my other classes! The worst/best part about the switch is that my old students always give me hugs and shout my name every time they see me outside or in the hallways. It really makes my day when they start the sports-style cheer: Shaaa-na! Shaaa-na! Shaaa-na!

So, what have I been up to lately? I've started going to a conversation hour type of thing in which we all speak thirty minutes or so in Spanish before switching to English for thirty minutes, and back and forth for about two hours. After last week's session, a group of us went to the Feria de la Cerveza that was held inside the Plaza de Toros. They tried to set it up like Oktoberfest, with long rows of tables and giant beer mugs that hold a full liter!There was also a variety of different types of sausage for sale, but to me they just tasted like hot dogs and breakfast sausage.

I guess that's how it goes when you're trying to eat German food in Spain. Speaking of which, Jen and I are going to Germany in December! We have a long weekend, or puente, at the beginning of the month so we spent an evening looking at cheap flights all around Europe and found some cheap ones to and from Düsseldorf and Frankfurt, but our itinerary between the two stops is currently undetermined, so please send suggestions! We are hoping to see Berlin, Dresden, and Munich, but I am still very open to suggestions. Also, Mom booked her flight to Madrid for Christmas, so we will probably travel for a few days before or after New Year's Eve, which I have decided we must spend here to be a part of the NYE tradition in Puerta del Sol, where the madrileños eat twelve grapes at midnight--one for each chime of the clock.

Yesterday I had my first session teaching the teachers at my school! As part of my program, the school can choose to have the English assistants help with teaching English to the other teachers. On Wednesdays, they meet with an actual English teacher, but on Monday afternoons they meet with Jen and me and we split into two groups for an hour of conversation. Jen has had some experience teaching before and, well, she tends to talk a bit faster than I do, so she has a group of six teachers who already know a bit of English. I have a group of fourteen (!!!) teachers who know less English, but their levels range from a few who really don't know any English to a few who will probably move up to the second class once they feel more comfortable speaking English. One of the teachers in my class, María (not to be confused with the first-grade English teacher María), lives near me and we've gotten the chance to talk on the bus to and from school nearly every day, so it's nice to have a friend in my group to help me relax! The teachers have all told me that they're very nervous and embarrassed to speak English, but yesterday I was extremely nervous to teach them! The class went well and was mostly me getting to know them and answering their questions more than I was asking them questions. Jen and I will be meeting with the Wednesday afternoon English teacher sometime this week to discuss her lesson plans so we can sort of echo what she teaches and reinforce the ideas in practice. Listen to me, all teachery.

This weekend was known as "MTV Week" because the European Music Awards (EMAs) were held in Madrid this year. What does this mean? Parties, concerts, and more parties going on all week, all sponsored by MTV and all free! Well, sort of. A big stage was set up in the city center at Puerta de Alcalá where a bunch of Spanish artists played a show on Saturday, and on Sunday, during the actual EMAs, Katy Perry, Linkin Park, and 30 Seconds to Mars performed. Of course, Kanye West had to show up and do a song in the middle of one of the performances, and Jackass came out and crowdsurfed. My roommate managed to see Snooki and Pauly D from Jersey Shore at a hotel downtown, while I was out and about all weekend and managed to not see anyone. Such is my life. My friend Josh and I tried to go to the EMA afterparty that was held in Parque Retiro, but much to our dismay the doorman told us it was invitation-only, and since it was late on a Sunday night we couldn't stick around to see the celebs arriving.

Aside from celebrity-stalking, I spent most of my weekend with some people from the conversation hour, going out to lunch, visiting the Sunday morning market aka El Rastro, tapas-crawling on Cava Baja and around La Latina, and generally wandering around the city and speaking lots of Spanish. It's just so incredible how much better my Spanish has gotten, not that it was bad before, but I'm not nearly as afraid to use it as I used to be. At times I really miss my family, my friends, and my old routine... I am especially missing Raleigh's fantastic breweries. I haven't found anything to compare to Sweet Josie Brown, and the recent return of Aces & Ates has me feeling extremely nostalgic for tasty beers. But I guess that's why I'm going to Germany!

To be fair, what Spain lacks in amazing wintry brews, it certainly makes up for in fantastic food. I've recently become obsessed with Pimientos de Padrón, a dish of fried peppers from Galicia in the Northwest of Spain. There is a saying about the dish in the local language, Galego: Os pementos de Padrón, uns pican e outros non, which means: Padrón peppers, some are spicy and some are not. Padrón is a town in the community of Galicia where the dish originated. Usually, it tastes like sweet fried peppers, but sometimes you'll get a spicy one. I had some at a small bar near the Plaza Mayor a few weeks ago and have been crazy about them ever since. If you have the means, I highly suggest picking one up.

I have added lots more pictures to my albums online. Click here to see them, and until next time, un beso!

My new home

Just kidding. But really, this house is for sale in La Moraleja, Madrid, and it could be yours for only 15 million euros! Idealista.com just published a list of the 88 most expensive houses they are currently advertising. Check it out! The most expensive house is in the Balearic Islands for 18 million euros. Joder.

This has been a really nice, tiring week. On Tuesday, my friend Jessie and I went to see Future Islands at a club in North-Central Madrid. I just saw them in Raleigh during Hopscotch in September, and that club was completely packed--apparently it was one-in, one-out by the time they started playing. Not surprisingly, the show was set to begin at 9pm but got pushed to 1030pm because Real Madrid was playing in town (across the street, no less) against AC Milan (final score, 2-0 Madrid) so Jessie and I went to a bar around the corner called Klippers for a drink before the show. Moby Dick, where they played, wasn't packed, but it was certainly full. There didn't seem to be too many people there who knew the band, but I wasn't the only one singing along!

The kids at school are really starting to respond and I can tell that a few of them are actually understanding the words that I teach them. I'd hoped to avoid having "favorites" but there are definitely a few kids that I enjoy working with more than others. I also get along very well with my teacher, María. At first I was a little nervous to work with her because she seemed very serious, but in the past few weeks we've worked out a good system and we are able to laugh with each other when we have a little downtime. I am also getting along well with the other assistant, Jennifer. We get to chat during recreo and on the bus to/from Madrid/Torrejón and discuss how things are going in our classes, since we never actually work together except for special events.

On Wednesday, all of the first and second-grade classes took a field trip to see La Flauta Mágica at a nearby theater. Jennifer and I got to go watch the play with them, which was of course entirely in Spanish, but very easy to follow and of course none of the words were too complicated. I hadn't even thought about that because I am so accustomed to only speaking English with my classes, so it seemed very strange to go do something with them in Spanish. The play was weird, but it was a semi-opera, so all of the characters sang at one point or another. The kids went crazy there, shouting at the stage constantly... I just sat with the other teachers and enjoyed a few hours of sitting in a comfy chair while the kids were entertained. We got back to the school right at recreo so all of the teachers retreated to the lounge for break time, and I inadvertently ate empanadillas with tuna in them. Boke. But fortunately today there was a tray of different types of ham (very important in Spain, as my friend Meredith eloquently writes in her blog) and cheese to be put on baguette slices. Also in school today the students made pumpkins using orange paint to decorate the classroom for Halloween and somehow I ended up with orange hands and spots  on my clothes, despite never painting anything!

Hmm, what else? During my session with the 4/5 year-old class this week, a teacher came into our classroom asking if my teacher, Sara, would help her look for a missing boy from the 3/4 year-old class! She agreed and asked if I'd go watch the 3/4 year-old class, but they haven't learned any English yet, so I finally had a chance to speak a bit of Spanish with some incredibly cute little ones. And the missing boy? It turns out he followed the wrong class inside after recreo and was enjoying a second music class that day.

Mom is hoping to buy her ticket out here for Christmas soon! I am so excited! It is going to be cold at Christmastime, so we might take a trip elsewhere for a few days... the only problem is that we want to go to even colder places like Germany and Austria to enjoy good beer (almost non-existent in this country) and reenact The Sound of Music. Heh. I don't have any big plans for the weekend except for maybe visiting the railway museum and making a few stops on the free coffee day in honor of Fair Trade month. Un beso a todos!

On Learning English

That's right--I'm learning English. "But Shana, you already speak English! And you are in Spain," you might say. However, because my roommates are from England and Scotland, I have been learning all kinds of fun new English words and phrases and realizing that even though the three of us speak the same language, we really don't speak the same English at all. Here are a few words I've picked up from them so far:

  • bolt - Scottish; get out of here, go away, etc.
  • busker - English; street musician. Verb: to busk.
  • boke/boak* - Scottish; to vomit, or to feel sick. "Total boakfest" or "That gives me the boke."
  • knackered - English; tired, exhausted.
  • steaming - Scottish; drunk.
  • skip - Scottish; dumpster.
  • Hank Marvin - Scottish; hungry, or if you're really hungry, you're "Hank Marvin and all his pals."
  • fit - English; extremely attractive (person).
*this is my favorite one so far.

There are more obvious ones of course, like lift, flat, dodgy, bin, rubbish, etc, but I don't think those need much explanation. I've also taught them a few that they particularly enjoyed, like "blowing up" in reference to an especially active cell phone, and "book it" for doing something really quickly--we were walking down Gran Vía and when a man ran past us I said, "wow he's really booking it," to much comedic effect.

More to come!

School is in session

I know, I know. It's been a while. I hadn't been updating because there was nothing going on, but now it seems like so much has happened since I last posted! Where to begin?? I had orientation about two weeks ago. It was useless at times and really helpful at others. However, the important stuff, like things regarding health insurance, national ID cards, etc, were all told to us in Spanish, while the less-important things, like ideas for teaching English, were told to us in our native tongue. Funny. I made a few friends, though I've only seen two of them regularly since then. One of them, Jessie, asked if I've heard of Broken Social Scene. Instant friend.

Last Tuesday, I went to visit my school so I'd know where I was going, how to get there, etc. before my first day. It was sort of overwhelming--hopping on a bus to a random suburb 22km (metric!) outside Madrid and having no idea where I was going or who I'd meet--but a nice lady from Torrejón sat with me and helped me get off at the right stop and pointed me in the right direction of the school. After a bit of trouble with the entrance (you have to use a buzzer to get in and out of the three choices on the buzzer I managed to choose the correct one last), I was met in the lobby by the director and the head of studies, who took me to meet the two English teachers in first grade, Inma and María. I'll be working exclusively with María this month, until I switch horarios with the other assistant and work only with Inma. The way our schedules work is that we switch each month to spend that time with one teacher and two of the four first grade classes. Right now I'm working with groups C and D.

Anyway, I digress. I went to visit the school, met the teachers, saw the kids, and then after school let out, Inma took me around the entire building (which is enormous) and introduced me to every teacher who was still around after the kids went home.

The next day was the 29th of September, or 29-S, the day of the Huelga General, or general strike. The recent economic crisis caused many of Spain's civil service workers to take a 5% pay cut, and it left a lot of people who lost their jobs without the typical severance package, about a month of pay minimum. The metro system was (allegedly) running 50% of its normal services during rush hours, and 20% for the rest of the day. I didn't notice a lot of strike-related changes in town other than some roads being shut down because of a bunch of protesters gathering in some plazas and roundabouts, but I also spent most of the day lying around in the park with my friends, eating bread and cheese and getting some sun.

My first real day at school was Friday, and I mostly observed but I did get two gifts already--a boy and a girl both said the pictures they'd drawn were for me, but unfortunately I couldn't accept them because they were in their student workbooks and part of the day's assignment. Hopefully they'll make some more for me!

Friday, I went out with my roommates to a pub quiz at an English bookstore in the Malasaña neighborhood. Photo of me, the roomies, and our friend Rachel (blonde) crammed into our tiny old-school elevator on the way to the pub quiz. We did pretty terrible. Considering the questions were done by an English guy and a lot of them were fairly UK-centric and we had a team of 3 Brits and an American, I would have expected to do a little better (especially considering my history with trivia nights!) but I guess not coming in last is good enough for our first try. We are probably going back this Friday, and the store has an intercambio night twice a week, and we have also been considering finding one to attend regularly so we can meet some more people and hopefully find someone to help us with our Spanish, since we really aren't supposed to speak it at school. I wouldn't mind meeting someone from Brazil, though, since I think it will be pretty easy to find Spanish speakers here (imagine that) but I'd really like to keep up with Portuguese in some way. If not, I'll just start skyping my old professor and classmates all the time. Hah. Speaking of skype, I have it! Add me by my email address if you have it, too!

I woke up Sunday with a sore throat and it has since progressed into cough and congestion. So, the bad news is that I've got my first cold in Madrid, but the good news is that I'm not necessarily allergic to Spain! Hooray!

This week, I've just been waking up at 7 (yuck) to catch the metro at 8 to the suburban bus at 820 to start school at 9 every day. I am in class from 9-2, and usually get home around 3 or 4, depending on which bus I manage to catch back to Madrid. A typical day has three sessions split between two classes, a 30-minute break, and then two more sessions with either one or both of the morning classes. During the 30-minute break, the kids go outside for recreo and the teachers hang out in the teacher's lounge which always has a delicious spread of coffee, juices, fruit, and a special tapa. Usually they are really good--today's was a slice of baguette with a red pepper/chorizo/cheese bruschetta-type mixture, but yesterday there was a plate of fried calamari rings, yuck! On Monday we had toasts with tomato, manchego, and the part that ruined it, tuna on top. I managed to find one that the chefs missed that only had tomato and cheese on it. Yum!

In general, I am really enjoying my "job" in the school (so far). It is obvious which kids are picking up on English quicker than others, and which of them are still afraid to try to use English with a scary native speaker. This is my school's first year doing the bilingual program, and when they start the program, they start from the bottom and work up. My first-graders are the only kids in the school taking English, and almost none of them have had much if any contact with English before now, so it is going to be an interesting year. I really hope I can make some progress with them, even if it is only that they know what "I'm fine, thank you" means rather than just knowing it is the acceptable response in the English classroom to the question, "How are you?"

fotográfica rápida

I don't have much to update on right now, as nothing's really happened for the past few days! However, I'll be taking a few quick pictures as I walk around town, so if you'd like to view what I've done so far, click on the Photos link or on the picture below:

Puerta de Toledo